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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.